Good Herbaceous perennials


A herbaceous border or herbaceous bed, is simply an area planted up with herbaceous perennials which die down in the winter, and re-grow the following spring to give a display of flowering colour throughout much of the summer. (Providing you choose the right plants!) many plants that are classed as herbaceous perennials are not truly herbaceous.

Many herbaceous perennial borders or beds have other types of perennials in them – besides the herbaceous perennials. This is not a problem, for a mixed border or will give you a bit more scope for year round colour and interest.

You do not actually need a specific herbaceous border or bed. You can simply plant a few herbaceous perennial plants in between shrubs – or in specific places where it is not easy to get plants to grow. Herbaceous perennials are a huge range of plants, and you are sure to find one for any spot in the garden - dry, damp; sunny, shaded; sheltered, exposed. There will be a herbaceous perennial which will grow there.

Herbaceous borders of old, tend to look messy and unkempt. This is generally because they have not been maintained well, and also to a large degree, because the range of herbaceous perennials in the past, were nowhere as good as those which are available today. Modern herbaceous perennials come in all sizes – right from the newer (small) sedums and saxifrages – up through to stunning Heleniums and more.

Echinacea (Rudbeckia) Purpureus - with a 'cousin' Rudbeckia fulgida 'Goldsturm'. Two brilliant 'Daisy-type' herbaceous perennials. Bpth are true herbaceous perennials in that they die down to ground level each year.

Colour in the garden right through from January to December if you have the space for plants.

What you do NOT need to do, is to plant the perennials in clumps of 3 or 5. It is a complete nonsense idea, which has been copied by gardening writers for many years. The ‘personality’ writers still prattle on about planting in groups of 3 or 5! WHY? It is a method that should have been confined to the compost heap long ago. For a start, you can choose any ten plants, and they will all grow to different widths. If for instance, you plant a group of 5 Euphatorium maculatum at the back of a border or bed, you will need a huge area to be able to plant other things. A single herbaceous perennial planted in the right place, will be fine if that is all you have room for!

Pt. 2 - Sheet Mulching around Perennials

2003-06-26 17:59:09 by pro

Sheet mulching around your perennials will require more work. Keep mulch 6 to 12 inches away from woody perennials and several inches from herbaceous. Weeds growing close to their root crowns will need to be hand weeded if possible.
For weeds you cannot kill that way, carefully wipe their leaves with Roundup. Attach sponges to the tips of spring-loaded meat tongs with rubber bands, dip them in Roundup and wipe both sides of the leaf.
Weed the area near the perennial crowns first then sheet mulch keeping the sheet away from them and thin out the mulch as it gets close to the woody stem

Despite soft wood cuttings these are hard wood +

2004-11-11 13:59:30 by AnitaMoPlants

Woody herbaceous plants which take a lot longer to send out roots than many true softwood herbaceous perennials .
The temperature and amount of light is going to have a large impact on how well your propagation goes.
You will do best with bottom heat and good bright light.
If you don't have a heating mat then a cold frame with a gravel bed facing south west would be best.
You can increase and dispell accumulated daytime heat by placing clear jugs of water ( empty milk jugs ) near your cold frame and or place your coldframe near a rock wall.
If you don't have a cold frame , which is pretty inexpensive to make, then you are going to have a rough go of it doing herbaceous cuttings during these cold months.

Have to change the struture

2007-03-27 11:57:13 by bockman

You don't need fertilizer, you need vast amounts of organic material. Very few cultivated herbaceous perennials and woody plants enjoy heavy clay as a growing medium, at best some will tolerate it.
Top dressing with things like good compost, composted cow manure, stable tailings, shredded leaves, thin layers of green grass clippings, pine needles, etc. will start the process of good soil structure as all that material slowly leaches downwards.

Powdery Mildew?

2004-06-30 12:00:01 by pro

Glad you didn't put it there! But, seriously, it's pretty common for Dahlia's to get PM. They won't die from it. Dahlias are herbaceous perennials so they die back naturally every year. Next year you'll have fresh, new, clean foliage (for a while) and you can try to prevent it from spreading before the leaves get yucky.
"Cultural Practices: Shade and moderate temperatures favor most powdery mildews. Locate plants in sunny areas as much as possible, provide good air circulation, and avoid excess fertilizer. A good alternative is to use slow-release fertilizer

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