Herbaceous perennials plants Scotland

DSC_0101Perennials keep coming back year after year, in the garden but also in designers’ sketchbooks.

Their popularity is understandable, offering as they do a marvellous range of forms; an array of leaf shapes and textures and a rainbow of colours. And while their habit of dying back in the winter (unless they’re evergreen) means they don’t have the staying power of many shrubs, they bring dynamism to the garden and the promise of their return each spring. Hold off on the cutting back and many will also offer faded but sculptural foliage and seed heads through the colder months.

Perennials can live for just a few years or much, much longer.

Before you get started, it’s worth drawing up a planting plan showing where each plant will go – this will come in very handy once you get outside and when your perennials have disappeared during the colder months. As you do it, you can check that each plant will be in a place where it’ll get the light, moisture, space and shelter that it needs. From a design point of view, it works well to plant each variety in groups of odd numbers – threes, fives or sevens.

1. Your plants

2. Garden fork and spade

3. Organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure

4. Mulch

DSC_00901. Loosen the soil and remove all weeds and their roots from the planting area.

2. Many perennials thrive in a moist, well-drained soil so you’ll need to dig in organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost if you haven’t done so already.

3. Using your planting plan, lay the plants out on the ground in their pots and then make any necessary tweaks to their positions.

4. Water all the pots thoroughly and let them drain.

5. Most perennials need to be planted at the same depth as they were in their pot. Once you’ve dug each hole, place the container in it and, if you need to, add or take away soil under the pot to get the right level.

DSC_01006. Then remove each plant by inverting the pot and, if necessary, tapping the base, and then sliding the pot off the roots.

7. Tease the roots from the base and sides (here you may find new shoots growing and will need to take care they are not damaged). This will encourage roots to grow out into the soil, allowing the plant to establish more quickly.

8. Place the plant in the hole and add soil around the root ball, checking the plant is upright. Firm in using your fingers.

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The New Zealand garden dictionary : a dictionary of plants in general cultivation in New Zealand, arranged in alphabetical order, giving the cultivation, propagation, and peculiarities of annuals, bulbs, herbaceous perennials ... and fruit trees. Designed for quick and easy reference
Book (Reed)

Nonsequitur alert re: shade

2004-03-05 18:31:17 by you_bastard

Druse, Ken: The Natural Shade Garden;
Eighty Great Natural Shade Garden Plants
Schultz, Warren: For Your Garden : Shade Gardens; Shade Gardens;For Your Garden: Shade Gardens
Cramer, Harriet L.
* Garden in the Shade
* Great Gardens in the Shade
Morse, H.K.
* GARDENING IN THE SHADE Planting the Shaded Garden with Shrubs and Herbaceous Perennials
* Gardening in the Shade: planting the shaded garden with shrubs and herbaceous perennials. 1939. dj HC
Brown, George E.
* Shade Plants for Garden and Woodland
Chatto, Beth
* Beth Chatto's Woodland Garden: Shade-Loving Plants for Year-Round Interest
* Woodland Garden
* The Sheltered Garden
Burrell, C. Colston

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