Herbaceous cuttings stem

Figure 2Propagation by stem cuttings is the most commonly used method to propagate many woody ornamental plants. Stem cuttings of many favorite shrubs are quite easy to root. Typically, stem cuttings of tree species are more difficult to root. However, cuttings from trees such as crape myrtles, some elms, and birches can be rooted.

A greenhouse is not necessary for successful propagation by stem cuttings; however, maintaining high humidity around the cutting is critical. If rooting only a few cuttings, you can use a flower pot (Figure 1). Maintain high humidity by covering the pot with a bottomless milk jug or by placing the pot into a clear plastic bag. Cuttings can also be placed in plastic trays covered with clear plastic stretched over a wire frame (Figure 2). Trays must have holes in the bottoms for drainage. The plastic will help keep the humidity high and reduce water loss from the cuttings.

If you need more elaborate facilities, you can construct a small hoop frame and/or use an intermittent mist system. Horticulture Information Leaflets 404 and 405 describe how this can be accomplished. Another bulletin that may be helpful is AG-426 (A Small Backyard Greenhouse for the Home Gardener).

Types of Stem Cuttings

The four main types of stem cuttings are herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood, and hardwood. These terms reflect the growth stage of the stock plant, which is one of the most important factors influencing whether or not cuttings will root. Calendar dates are useful only as guidelines. Refer to Table 1 for more information on the best time to root stem cuttings of particular ornamental plants.

Table 1. Optimum stage of tissue (wood) maturity for rooting stem cuttings of selected woody ornamentals

Evergreen Plants

Common Name Scientific Name Type of Cutting
Abelia Abelia spp. SH, HW
Arborvitae, American Thuja occidentalis SH, HW
Arborvitae, Oriental Platycladus orientalis SW
Azalea (evergreen & semi-evergreen) Rhododendron spp. SH
Barberry, Mentor Berberis x mentorensis
Barberry, Japanese Berberis thunbergii
Barberry, Wintergreen Berberis julianae
Boxwood, Littleleaf Buxus microphylla
Boxwood, Common Buxus sempervirens
Camellia Camellia spp. SW, SH, HW
Ceanothus Ceanothus spp.
Cedar Cedrus spp.
Chamaecyparis; False Cypress Chamaecyparis spp.
Cotoneaster Cotoneaster spp. SW, SH
Cryptomeria, Japanese Cryptomeria japonica
Daphne Daphne spp.
Eleagnus, Thorny Elaeagnus pungens
English ivy Hedera helix
Euonymus Euonymus spp.
Fir Abies spp. SW, HW
Gardenia; Cape jasmine Gardenia jasminoides
Heath Erica spp.
Hemlock Tsuga spp.
Holly, Chinese Ilex cornuta
Holly, Foster’s Ilex xattenuata‘Fosteri’
Holly, American Ilex opaca
Holly, Yaupon Ilex vomitoria
Holly, English Ilex aquifolium
Holly, Japanese Ilex crenata
Jasmine Jasminum spp.
Juniper, Creeping Juniperus horizontalis
Juniper, Chinese Juniperus chinensis
Juniper, Shore Juniperus conferta
Leyland cypress xCupressocyparis leylandii
Magnolia Mahonia spp.
Oleander Nerium oleander
Osmanthus, Holly Osmanthus heterophyllus
Photinia Photinia spp.
Pine, Mugo Pinus mugo

Many phases of propagation

2009-07-01 10:34:10 by AnitaMoPlants

You were correct in eliminating some of the leaf surface and making a shallow wound in the base of the stem.
For soft wood stem cuttings one usually makes a clean cut just below a node in the stem and then a one inch sliced wound .
You may not have lost the plant. Roots may form this autumn.
The leaves may have fallen from drying out or perhaps a fungus formed in the soil
With evergreen leaf cuttings I sometimes will put plastic over the cuttings to keep the humidity up .
Environmental control such as stress, too much water, not enough light or a soil fungus appearance are all plausible reasons for the leaf drop


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