Herbaceous stem cuttings Instructions

Herbaceous Peony after

A portion of a stem taken from a plant and used to propagate a new clone of that plant through rooting.

are the most commonly used method of vegetative propagation. A stem cutting is plant stem including a tip (e.g. shoot, twig, sucker, ) or a portion of a stem without the apex that includes one or more nodes removed from a parent plant and capable of rooting; A stem cutting is used to grow a whole new plant, which is also known as cloning (because you are creating an exact copy of the parent plant, a clone).

The stem sections should be free of diseases and pests. Cut below a node. For tip cutting remove foliage from the bottom half of the stem leaving only few leaves in the top. When a cutting is made, injured xylem and phloem cells plug the tubes so that precious fluids are not lost. Usually a Callus forms at the cut. Cells near the callus area reorganize to form adventitious roots.
The cutting is then placed into rooting medium so that the base of the cutting is below the surface. Some plants will reproduce readily from cuttings while others take a considerable amount of time and care. Rooting condition may vary considerably in different species but in general the best conditions needed for most kind of cuttings to root comprises high humidity, indirect light and soil temperatures of 20°C to 25° C.
These conditions may be created by keeping cuttings enclosed under glass or in plastic bags in dappled shade. Rooting can take from a few days up to several months. Rooting hormones may be used with this method as they helps to stimulate rooting.

There are different typology of stem cuttings:

Herbaceous cuttings:
Are stems or pieces of stems taken from nonwoody plants, such as perennials and houseplants and rooted in the normal way.
Softwood cuttings:
Are pieces of new growth taken from woody stock plants. These cuttings are taken from first-year branches that have not yet become woody. Flowering shrubs are often propagated by softwood cuttings. Late spring and early summer are the best times for success with this method. Make a diagonal cut. The larger diagonal cut gives more area to develop roots. Keep cuttings in water before moving them into rooting medium. Make cuttings 5-30 cm long with no flowers or buds on them. Larger cuttings produce larger plants sooner. Make cuts slightly below a leaf node, and root in the normal way.
Hardwood cuttings:

Many phases of propagation

2009-07-01 10:34:10 by AnitaMoPlants

You were correct in eliminating some of the leaf surface and making a shallow wound in the base of the stem.
For soft wood stem cuttings one usually makes a clean cut just below a node in the stem and then a one inch sliced wound .
You may not have lost the plant. Roots may form this autumn.
The leaves may have fallen from drying out or perhaps a fungus formed in the soil
With evergreen leaf cuttings I sometimes will put plastic over the cuttings to keep the humidity up .
Environmental control such as stress, too much water, not enough light or a soil fungus appearance are all plausible reasons for the leaf drop

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