Herbaceous stem cuttings Propagation


Propagating Hardwood Cuttings

One of the easiest propagation techniques is propagating using hardwood cuttings. Since these cuttings don’t have leaves, there isn’t the initial requirement to provide a high humidity environment to stop the cuttings drying out before they root.

Hardwood cuttings are even simpler to prepare than herbaceous cuttings, as we use cuttings from dormant deciduous trees and woody plants, and this technique is very useful for propagating fruit trees such as figs, pomegranates, mulberries and quince. Some plums can grow well from hardwood cuttings too, while other’s don’t do so well, it depends on the variety.

This technique is also used for propagating vines such as grapes and kiwi fruit, and the currant family – blackcurrants, redcurrants, golden currants and gooseberries.

The steps are as follows:


Step 1 – Select suitable cuttings

Hardwood cuttings are taken from deciduous trees and plants (ones that lose their leaves in winter) when they are dormant, i.e. when they have no leaves.

The best time for taking hardwood cuttings is from early autumn when the leaves drop to late winter.

Take cuttings that are close to pencil-thickness from current season’s growth – it will be mature and woody, not soft and green. Cut off any unripened green growth at the tips.

To increase the chances of rooting cuttings:

  • Try to take cuttings where the current season’s wood (1 year old wood) joins the two year old wood.01 e greatest potential for root development – it contains a large number of dormant buds that supply hormones required for developing roots.
  • Take cuttings at leaf fall and just before the buds break.

Step 2 – Trim cuttings to size

Hardwood cuttings are cut much longer than herbaceous cuttings because they take more time to develop roots and therefore need to use the reserves of food stored in the cutting to keep them alive through winter. A longer cutting stores more food in it.

  1. Make a horizontal cut 6mm (1/4”) below the lowest bud at the base.
  2. Find a bud approximately 15-20cm (6-10”) away from the base to make the tip cut.
  3. Near this tip bud, make a sloping cut away from a bud, 6mm (1/4”) above the bud.
02 03 04 05

Many phases of propagation

2009-07-01 10:34:10 by AnitaMoPlants

You were correct in eliminating some of the leaf surface and making a shallow wound in the base of the stem.
For soft wood stem cuttings one usually makes a clean cut just below a node in the stem and then a one inch sliced wound .
You may not have lost the plant. Roots may form this autumn.
The leaves may have fallen from drying out or perhaps a fungus formed in the soil
With evergreen leaf cuttings I sometimes will put plastic over the cuttings to keep the humidity up .
Environmental control such as stress, too much water, not enough light or a soil fungus appearance are all plausible reasons for the leaf drop

You might also like:

How to grow eggplant. 1st Chapter
How to grow eggplant. 1st Chapter

DALY: Use care when planting around septic drainfields  — Gwinnettdailypost.com
Shallow rooted annual and perennial herbaceous plants can be planted closer to the drain fields since they do not have invasive roots. Turfgrass can be grown over the drain field and is beneficial since it helps hold the soil in place.

Mr Fothergills Seeds Mr Fothergills Seeds Echinacea Large Flowered
Home Improvement (Mr Fothergills Seeds)
  • Impressive, large daisy-like purple blooms with dark central cones on tall upright stems, ideal for cutting and the herbaceous border.

Related posts: